Hi Folks. Well A Merry New Year old things, Here’s another Episode of my drivel for you to laugh and poke fun at... its seems my wilfull neglect and the fine British winter finally caught up with the old RAGE bucket, and claimed its first wear-an-tear victim at last. The right hand fork seal decided to expire, ...and then, right on queue like clockwork.. the left hand one blew the following week.Deep Joy... so time for some good old winter maintenance and see what horrors wait inside the legs after 17 years and 46K miles.. (coz you can bet yer Mama's britches they have never had the oil changed.).

So in the time honoured tradition of Episodes one, to Seventeen, here's how the job went..
First, raked out the faithful paddock stand, and trolley jack to hike the front up and drop out the legs.. and just a little tip, i use a soft sponge loyblock to protect the collector, and jack on the cast bit so as not to crush it.

Ill rip through this as its hardly complex and i don't want to bore yooz all asleep... so.. calipers off. hows that for a crappy disc...lol)
Bungie 'em back to a foot peg to hold 'em out of the way.
Wheel out...!
Then i can get at the legs..top clamp loosed on me yokes.(Thats "Tripple Tree's Crash mate.!)
Little tip'ette.... drop the leg down, re-pinch it in the bottom clamp, and you can get 'old of it wiv yer 23mm o/e to crack the top cap thread. (but don't undo it, just "crack it off" Fnurk..!
Once out, lay it on the operating table, and ready the new parts.. left to right.."pair of new "Nikone" OE seals, some new dust caps, and some new oil... oh and the white thingermybob is a cunning 50p seal driver tool,, ill show you how it works in a mo..

Here's tip'ette number two... use the old "Ring spanner ploy" for undo of the bottom bolt.. (as im not a 'feshnial machanic with fancy "T" bar hex tools, my 3/8 alun key was all i had.. )
Now using a handy cat-litter-tray, drain out the old oil, and believe me when i say that smelled bad... you can't imagine... it was a cross between rotten eggs, and a vegetarians fart... phew.. need a brew.!, thats certainly hadn't been changed this century..!!
Whip out the cartridge, (its not under pressure like right-way-up forks,) and wash all they grey slurry off with some WD40.
Ive pumped the cartridge out and cleaned it.. its all fine so i see no need to strip it, all it now leaves is to swap the seals.
Now im sure you all know this bit... dust cap slid back... spring clip removed from its groove..(baby)..
And "Slider Hammer" it apart like a regular fork, taking out the seal in the process. (hey look, more sticky grey snot... yummy. garage now smells like the 'bean eating tent' at a vegan bike rally..!)
After a bit more vigerous cleanage, use a little thing to prize out the top bush.
Then arrange all the thingermybobs in a neat row, in order of disassemblage..
(so you can put them back in the right order, and the right way up)
Now, coz yer top bush lives in a little ridge, with well sharp edges an all that, you'll need to cover them up with some insulting tape to protect your new seal from getting damaged, and it also helps to whack on some jollop to help it all slide over-easy baby...!(or seal grease). Dont i look 'feshnial in my rubber gloves
Then its just a case of easing over the new dust cap, and oil seal and all the other wassnames in the right order...
Make sure the top bush snaps neatly back into its track and spins freely.
Right... now ready for the money saving tip of all time.... Seal drivers... they usualy cost between £45 and £60, and come one size only, and like i said, not being a pukker smartypants technissun', with walls of certifticates and a Snap-On account,,, i had to make do... so check out this little nugget....
You need about 7 inches of 36mm B&Q waste pipe, cut one but just shorter than the other (and cut them square mind) and then slit both bits open along thier length... and this is what you do with 'em.
open-up and snap the shorter one over the fork leg like this.
Then... take the whole lot off, replace it above the new oil seal, but this time also clip the second, longer tube over the top, and leave the "overhang" towards the seal. the outer sleave sits about 1mm off the fork surface, this ensures that it wont hit the soft rubber lip, but the hard outer collar instead.. and gently drive the oil seal in with a careful "slider hammer" action like before..
